However, once the nut was off on the pedal arm, the assembly below - inside the pedal arm - was revealed.
As an added distraction, the part shows an offset between entry and exit to to the arm.
Soooo.....the question is - how do you remove a threaded on one end, smooth on the other, offset "bolt"?
The answer is you realize it isn't a bolt, but rather a wedge pin. Its way too tight to be pulled out by the non threaded end or simply tapped out from the other. The only solution is to put the nut partially back on to increase the surface area while protecting the threads - and give it a good hearty blow with a hammer. Once removed, it looks like this:
Like everything, its easy once you know how to do it. However, getting there took more than a little thinking, experimentation and in the end web searching that found an exploded parts diagram.
Until then though, I couldn't bring myself to do it. Hitting a threaded part with a hammer just didn't seem right.
What? You mean when you got to a part you didn't understand, you didn't just give up? That's what I normally do.
ReplyDeleteAnd still, whacking a threaded end with a hammer seems wrong. Did you get the whole thing repaired yet?
Actually no, not yet. Before ordering just the one part that failed, I found a much newer and overall better condition Airdyne 4 on CL dirt cheap. The reason for the fire sale was that it has a failed sealed bearing cartridge in the crank. I verified that the cartridge is the same as my Airdyne 3 so I plan on swapping between the two.
ReplyDeleteSo that way I'll avoid another wear related break on the original, but greatly increased the amount of work required. Basically everything except the fan wheel now has to come apart. It was just too cold for me to want to spend that length of time in the garage this weekend.
I've got a lockring wrench to release the crank, but am concerned that I'll need a crank puller once its opened up. Maybe the subject for another post - when it gets warmer!